Isabela

Where six volcanoes formed one island

Highlights

Active volcanoes, flightless cormorants, Galapagos penguins, Puerto Villamil, spectacular snorkelling sites, remote western coast

Wildlife

Flightless cormorant, Galapagos penguin, marine iguana, Galapagos land iguana, giant tortoise, Galapagos sea lion, Galapagos hawk, blue-footed booby, American flamingo, green sea turtle, whitetip reef shark, Galapagos shark, rays, pink land iguana, mangrove finch

The pink land iguana and mangrove finch are among Isabela’s rarest endemic species. Their highly sensitive habitats are not accessible to regular visitors, so these species cannot be specifically sought out during a tourist visit.

See & experience

Isabela is by far the largest island in the Galapagos and is instantly recognisable from the air. Six enormous shield volcanoes gradually merged to form the distinctive island whose shape is often compared to a seahorse.

The landscape remains intensely volcanic. The volcanoes Ecuador, Wolf, Darwin, Alcedo, Sierra Negra and Cerro Azul define Isabela’s silhouette, and five of the six are still considered active. At the same time, the waters along the western coast are among the most nutrient-rich in the archipelago. Cold, nutrient-rich currents create ideal conditions for an exceptionally rich variety of wildlife.

Isabela is one of the most important islands for seeing two iconic Galapagos species: the Galapagos penguin and the flightless cormorant. It is also home to some of the largest marine iguanas in the archipelago, several populations of giant tortoises and some of the rarest endemic animals in the world.

You can explore Isabela both on an expedition cruise and while staying in Puerto Villamil. The remote western coast is primarily the domain of expedition vessels, while several sites in the south can be visited from Puerto Villamil as well as on certain cruise itineraries. What you see therefore depends very much on your chosen journey and itinerary.

The remote western coast

The western coast of Isabela is one of the most pristine areas of the Galapagos. Visitor sites here include Bahía Urbina, Caleta Tagus, Punta Vicente Roca, Bahía Elizabeth and Punta Moreno. This part of the island is only explored on expedition cruises.

The cold, nutrient-rich waters around the Canal Bolívar, between Isabela and Fernandina, create exceptional conditions for marine life. This is also one of the areas where you may encounter whales and dolphins while sailing.

Bahía Urbina

At the foot of Volcán Alcedo lies Bahía Urbina, where the landscape tells a remarkable geological story. In 1954, tectonic activity suddenly lifted a large section of the seabed by several metres. Areas that had previously been underwater rose above sea level within a very short period.

After a wet landing, you walk through this relatively young landscape, where traces can still be found of the time when parts of it formed the seabed.

Bahía Urbina is particularly interesting for its wildlife. Galapagos land iguanas and giant tortoises are among the possible encounters, while marine iguanas, flightless cormorants and various seabirds can be seen along the coast. Depending on the itinerary, there may also be an opportunity to snorkel after the walk.

Caleta Tagus

Caleta Tagus lies on the Canal Bolívar between Isabela and Fernandina. The sheltered bay was used for centuries as an anchorage by pirates, whalers and other seafarers. Names and dates carved into the rock by earlier visitors can still be seen today.

A steep trail leads upwards through the dry volcanic landscape towards Laguna Darwin, a saltwater lake inside a former crater. As you climb, spectacular views open up across the bay, the lake, the Canal Bolívar and the volcanic landscapes of Isabela and Fernandina.

Caleta Tagus is equally interesting from the water. During a panga or kayak excursion along the rocky coastline, you may encounter Galapagos penguins, flightless cormorants, marine iguanas and Galapagos sea lions.

Punta Vicente Roca

At the foot of Volcán Ecuador, in the far northwest of Isabela, the sheer cliffs of Punta Vicente Roca rise directly from the sea. From a panga, you get an impressive view of the island’s volcanic geology.

Beneath the surface, this site is every bit as remarkable. Cold, nutrient-rich currents support a great concentration of marine life, making Punta Vicente Roca one of the best snorkelling sites in western Isabela.

Green sea turtles are often seen here in large numbers. Galapagos penguins, flightless cormorants, Galapagos sea lions, rays and many species of fish are also among the possible encounters.

Bahía Elizabeth

Bahía Elizabeth lies on the western coast of Isabela and is explored from the water. An extensive mangrove habitat creates a sheltered world of small bays, channels and clear water.

Travelling by panga through the mangroves, you may see green sea turtles and rays beneath the surface. Galapagos penguins and flightless cormorants can also be encountered along the coastline.

As there is no landing here, all attention is focused on the tranquil landscape and the wildlife in and around the water.

Punta Moreno

Punta Moreno lies on Isabela’s southwestern coast, between Sierra Negra and Cerro Azul. The landscape is dominated by vast expanses of black lava that can appear almost devoid of life at first glance.

Look more closely and you will discover small lagoons and oases scattered among the lava. Various waterbirds can be seen here and, occasionally, American flamingos. Mangroves and pioneer plants have established themselves between the lava flows.

The contrast is spectacular: dark lava in the foreground and the enormous volcanoes of Isabela and Fernandina on the horizon. It is one of the places where the young volcanic character of the western Galapagos is particularly striking.

Southern Isabela and Puerto Villamil

Puerto Villamil lies in the south of the island and has a very different character from the remote western coast. A long white-sand beach, sandy streets and small-scale hotels and restaurants create a relaxed atmosphere.

From Puerto Villamil, you can explore several areas of southern Isabela. Some of these visitor sites are also included on expedition cruises calling at Puerto Villamil. Sierra Negra, Centro de Crianza Arnaldo Tupiza, Los Humedales and Las Tintoreras, for example, feature on certain cruise itineraries. The exact combination varies from one itinerary to another.

Sierra Negra and Volcán Chico

Sierra Negra is one of the most impressive volcanoes in the Galapagos. Its enormous, almost level caldera stretches for kilometres and gives you a real sense of the immense scale of Isabela’s shield volcanoes.

A walk takes you to the rim of the caldera and, depending on the itinerary and accessible route, can be extended towards Volcán Chico. Here, the landscape changes dramatically. Dark and reddish-brown lava and stark volcanic formations give the area an almost otherworldly appearance.

Sierra Negra remains active. You are therefore not simply walking through a landscape shaped by volcanism in the distant past, but across a volcanic system that continues to shape Isabela today.

Sierra Negra can be visited both on excursions from Puerto Villamil and on certain expedition cruises calling at southern Isabela.

Los Humedales

Immediately behind Puerto Villamil begins an extensive area of lagoons, mangroves and wetlands known as Los Humedales.

Walking and cycling trails allow you to explore the area. American flamingos, waders and other waterbirds use the lagoons, while marine iguanas are regularly seen along the route.

The contrast with the dry volcanic landscapes elsewhere on Isabela is striking. Here, water, mangroves and coastal vegetation define the scenery. Los Humedales can be visited from Puerto Villamil and is also included on some cruise itineraries.

Muro de las Lágrimas

Further along the coast stands Muro de las Lágrimas, the Wall of Tears.

From 1946 to 1959, Isabela was home to a penal colony. Prisoners were forced to carry and stack heavy lava rocks to create an enormous wall. The structure had little practical purpose and today serves primarily as a poignant reminder of a dark chapter in the island’s human history.

From Puerto Villamil, you can reach the wall on foot or by bicycle. The route passes through several different landscapes and takes you past beaches and viewpoints, making the journey itself part of the experience.

Centro de Crianza Arnaldo Tupiza

Not far from Puerto Villamil lies Centro de Crianza Arnaldo Tupiza, Isabela’s giant tortoise breeding and conservation centre.

Isabela is unusual in that separate populations of giant tortoises evolved on different volcanoes. At the centre, tortoises are raised as part of conservation programmes designed to restore threatened populations and eventually return animals to their original habitats.

A visit not only gives you the opportunity to see giant tortoises at close range, but also tells the story of decades of conservation work on Isabela.

The centre can be visited from Puerto Villamil and is also included on a number of expedition cruise itineraries.

Concha de Perla

A short distance from the pier in Puerto Villamil lies Concha de Perla, a sheltered lagoon reached via a wooden walkway.

Its relatively calm waters make it an attractive place for swimming and snorkelling when conditions allow. Galapagos sea lions, green sea turtles, marine iguanas and a variety of fish are among the possible encounters.

Las Tintoreras

Just off the coast of Puerto Villamil lie the small volcanic islets of Las Tintoreras. They are easily reached by panga from the town and are also visited on a number of expedition cruises.

A visit generally combines a panga excursion with a walk. Depending on the programme and permitted activities, snorkelling may also be included.

Large numbers of marine iguanas rest on the dark lava, while Galapagos penguins, Galapagos sea lions, green sea turtles and rays can also be seen.

The name Tintoreras refers to whitetip reef sharks. These sharks can be seen resting in the shallow water of narrow lava channels, sometimes with several animals together.

Los Túneles

West of Puerto Villamil lies one of the most remarkable landscapes and snorkelling areas in southern Isabela. At Los Túneles, lava flows have created a network of natural arches, tunnels, pools and channels both above and below the water.

The landscape alone makes the excursion worthwhile. Black lava arches rise above the clear water, creating sheltered habitats for a remarkable variety of wildlife.

While snorkelling, you may encounter green sea turtles, whitetip reef sharks, rays and large numbers of fish. Seahorses can also be seen here. Above the water, various seabirds can be observed around the lava formations.

Los Túneles is mainly visited on day trips from Puerto Villamil. The excursion is popular and visitor numbers are regulated, so booking in advance is recommended.

Two species almost no one gets to see

Isabela is home to two animals that are exceptional even by Galapagos standards. You cannot specifically seek them out during a regular visit, but their presence illustrates just how extraordinary the evolution and biodiversity of this enormous island are.

Pink land iguana

On the slopes of Volcán Wolf lives an animal found nowhere else in the world: the pink land iguana.

This is not simply a pink variation of the familiar Galapagos land iguana, but a separate species. Its extremely small population survives within a very limited area around Volcán Wolf, and the species is classified as Critically Endangered.

Its habitat is not a regular visitor site. The pink land iguana is therefore not an animal you can set out to find during your journey. Nevertheless, it is an integral part of Isabela’s unique wildlife.

Mangrove finch

The mangrove finch is another of Isabela’s most extraordinary animals. One of Darwin’s finches, it is also one of the rarest birds in the world.

The remaining population survives only in a few very small mangrove areas along the northwestern coast of Isabela. Because of the species’ extreme vulnerability, these areas are closed to tourists.

The mangrove finch demonstrates just how far specialisation can go in the Galapagos: the survival of an entire species depends on a remarkably small habitat on a single island.

Diving around Isabela

Beneath the surface, Isabela is also one of the most interesting islands in the Galapagos. The combination of volcanic underwater landscapes and nutrient-rich currents attracts an exceptional variety of marine life.

There are numerous dive sites around this enormous island. Not all are visited from Puerto Villamil and some can only be reached on specialised diving itineraries. Which sites are accessible depends on the dive operator, permits, weather and sea conditions, and the experience level of the divers.

Cabo Marshall

Cabo Marshall lies on the northeastern side of Isabela and is particularly known for encounters with large rays, including manta rays. Schools of fish, sharks and sea turtles may also be seen.

Currents and sea conditions can be challenging, making Cabo Marshall particularly suitable for experienced divers.

Punta Vicente Roca

Punta Vicente Roca is not only impressive above water and while snorkelling. Beneath the surface, its dramatic volcanic walls continue into the sea, while cold, nutrient-rich water attracts abundant marine life.

Green sea turtles, rays, sharks and large schools of fish are among the possible encounters. The cold water and sometimes challenging conditions make this a very different diving experience from warmer sites elsewhere in the archipelago.

Roca Redonda

North of Isabela lies Roca Redonda, the summit of a submarine volcano rising above the surface of the ocean.

Its remote location, volcanic underwater formations and nutrient-rich waters make this an adventurous dive site. Currents and conditions can be challenging, and the site is particularly suited to experienced divers.

Other official dive sites around Isabela include Isla Tortuga, Roca Cuatro Hermanos, Roca Blanca, Isla Cowley and La Viuda. Not every site forms part of regular diving programmes.